.JPG)
Wages in Spain are not that good for the eleventh economy of the world (they are sad, actually), mine in particular, so when I managed a few days off last winter and I decided that I couldn’t wait more to see Scotland, I soon realised, on checking transport and hotel prices, that backpacking was my only option, at least if I intended to pay the rent and eat at least twice a day (I have weird habits, I like to eat everyday and have a roof under which to sleep regularly!) for the following months. So I called on one of my teenager brothers and asked for my old rucksack back, and prepared myself to discover exactly how old can being 31 years old and three stones heavier really feel when you go back to doing things the way you did them back when you thought yourself immortal. And I haven’t regretted that decision for a single moment. Oh, I felt, old, out of shape, heavy and broadly in need of medical treatment, but I loved every minute! I found Scotland (or what I saw of it) a great country to travel this way.First thing to say is that Scotchs are a jolly good bunch: warm, good spirited and generous. I would say they probably are, along with Irish, French and Italians (in no particular order) the most similar to Spanish in their attitude towards life within Europe. And this is particularly important when you travel virtually penniless and short of luxuries and commodities: they try to make you feel at home.
Hostel accommodations in Scotland are aplenty, and for all reports I’ve gathered, pretty good in general. It is a popular destination among backpackers, so there is an important infrastructure which results in a very wide and varied offer to choose from: family owned, youth hostels, chains, YMCA’s, dorms… In Edinburgh in particular I would recommend Macbackpackers chain from reports of many travelling companions. Among other reasons, like their more than then years of experience in the business, they have a good net of hostels in the most popular spots of the country, are very good quality-price related, and shape a family-like community of users which makes it very easy to make friends through your travels. Another very good option is the Smart City Hostel, awarded five quality stars by Visi
tScotland’s tourism board. This is where I stayed. Smart city is the largest and newest hostel in the Scottish capital; an awful lot of money has been invested in its construction, and it shows. Facilities are very ample and include a pub with the adjacent common room and its massive plasma tv, internet centre, common kitchen with all utensils you might need in abundance, two terraces for smokers or just for being outside if temperature is nice (haha! Sorry I didn’t mean to laugh but the combination Edinburgh-November-Nice temperature is not very likely)… As for the rooms, they are spacious for the average hostel, and all include separate shower and toilet facilities. All in all, very nice, if kind of lacking the atmosphere of camaraderie that I could see at MBP hostels.Transport issues: in the end I didn’t use much of the public transport network outside Edinburgh, but before I went I did my homework and I found it was well managed in general, if not very exhaustive. Trains can take you to many of the most popular locations and ScotRail offers different passes that cover rail transport in particular areas of the country (some including the subway in Glasgow) but if you are a medium to keen off-the-beaten-path trailer you will have to resort to buses or, in occasions, to the mail service vans, and plan carefully your itinerary and schedule if, like me, only have a
few days to spend.Finally, you can, as did I, take a backpacking tour; you won’t regret it. And here Macbackpackers turn up again (I get no commissions, mind you, I speak of them ‘cos they are good-you reading this guys? How about a little discount next time? ;oD ). They offer a small but comprehensive variety of tours around Scotland. You ride in Mercedes minivans with a guide/driver and sleep in hostels of their network-accommodation is paid apart, on arrival to each hostel). Also, one of the tours is an exhaustive hop on-hop off through the most popular places, so you can visit Scotland at your favourite pace. Whichever option you choose, the schedule is driving all trough scenic routes, stopping at least every couple of hours at historical, beautiful or otherwise significant spots (and everyday there one or two stops are made at places where you have a supermarket or similar to buy food or other things you may need). All the while the drivers/guides are filling you in on what you see, where you are, local and general history, folklore, creating a friendly atmosphere among everyone in the trip and in the whole making the journey an experience you will never forget. And boy, these guys are good! I have led tours in my Spain and Portugal for about six years
and I know very few guides that can compare to them with their informal but genial ways. Our driver, a great guy from Auchterarder (it has taken me ages to work out the spelling from what I remembered it sounded like!) in Perthsire, called Neil, could have us laughing our asses off and, half an hour later, after he told us a wonderful legend behind two standing stones in a village of Skye I can’t remember the name of (Neil, if you read this drop me a line and remind me, I beg, it’s been nagging at my memory for months!), the whole bus would stay silent, moved and in the verge of tears. Most of what I know of Scotland (and I deem myself capable of speaking for a few hours about the White Rose) comes from him.Macbackpackers is not the only operator using this recipe (though I believe they are the best). Haggis Adventures (yes, named like that tasty (in)famous dish) is also very popular and may suit you better if you are aged 16 to 20. There is also Wild in Scotland, but I do not have reports of this one.
I think this might well be my longest entry so far, other considerations, and a journal of that trip I also plan to post, will have to wait.
more info:
2 comments:
Hi,
I'll wager the stones you are trying to remember are at Kensaleyre. These are known locally as the stones that a big cauldron was set upon for boiling the Irish hero Fionn mac Cumhaill's meat. Tradition has it that the mottled colour of theses stones was caused by the heros spitting out the shellfish stew they had been reduced to eating when better game appeared. Even now they are often called 'the stones of the mouthful'.
http://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/760/eyre.html
By the way I can vouch that Wild in Scotland also run excellent tours to Skye, Lewis, Harris and Orkney.
Cheers,
James
(Wild in Scotland staff) ;P
http://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/760/eyre.html
Well, Hullo there, wildscot!
Thanks a lot for your post (you have the honour of being the first to submit a comment to my blog and nothing could please me more than a having a worthy son of the White Rose to be my first guest!). Aye, those in the antiquarian site look them ones, though it was already dark and rainy and we only saw them from the bus, so not 100% sure. The legend we were told about them was, anyhow, a different one. It was the tale of a birthmarked local boy who captured, loved, and was loved by a selkie, and of their children, a moving tale of boundless family love that I would love to hear again. If you knew a few good links to collectiosn of scottish folklore you could provide me with I would really appreciate it.
Your vouching for Wild in Scotland is noted, I might give you guys a go next time! I am dying to return to Scotland. In the meantime, a toast to you and your kin, SLAINTE MHATH!
Post a Comment